Thursday, September 26, 2013

Of Planes, Trains, and Motorbikes

Remember that time that I went to Naples by myself? And was hanging out and walking along the coastline getting dinner and chilling? And then when I went back to the metro station to go home and it was void of people and trains? And the metro guard almost locked me inside the building? Yeah, that was only the beginning.

So after the previous happened, I looked for a bus which would take me close to my b&b safely. I stood for a moment at the bus stop until I realized that there were no buses running. At all. Weellll crap. I could walk back, of course, but it was an unfamiliar route (had taken the metro previously), and it was getting close to midnight. I knew I was safe from 'predators' as my b&b owner had told me that it's unheard of in Napoli and even those who rarely committed such acts of violation were beaten up or killed by other native Napoli-ans to defend the woman's honor so it's not such a great idea for anyone. That, and I have mace.

Across the street was a restaurant with some people milling around and enjoying the cool night air. There was also a parking tollbooth with a man inside. I went over and, to confirm sinking suspicions, asked 'when was linea 16?' Nooo english. I said I wanted to go to Montesanto station. nooo english. But thankfully he had a translation app that we used to communicate. After I told him what I wanted through the app, he said in italian (because I guess he figured I understood Italian though just didn't speak it... ?) that the metro was done for the day. The bus was done for the day. The taxis were done for the day. So he called a friend who came over from across the street and ended up suggesting "'bambini'... 'motobike'.... 'montesanto'... 'venti'". What did this mean? I assumed from those four words I understand of his communication that his 14-year old son would take me to the montesanto station for 20 Euros... on his scooter..

Options weighed and decision made, I experienced the thrills of the wind in my hair, helmet flopping around on my head, knuckles white and hands curled on the back of the scooter, near death run-ins with other motorbikes and cars, the struggle of 'motor vs. hill', and the overwhelming joy of scooter adventure. All the while telling myself to relax - (wisdom speaking) because I knew that a relaxed body falling from a bike was caused much less damage than a tense one. So relax I did. Then I smiled and laughed the entire way home and enjoyed the views of the city as we climbed up the hill.

I recognized the street we were on and stopped the kid when we reached the b&b, gave him the agreed upon amount, and thanked him profusely. He then sped away back down the hill. Oh boy. That was the best adventure of Italy so far.


If you are interested in hearing only the exciting stuff of my day, you may stop here and go about your merry way. Otherwise, please continue though it's a long blog today for some reason. Don't say I didn't warn you.

(written before the scooter fun) Today, I started my long weekend adventure in Naples! I got up waaay too early in order to make the trip to the airport (4:15) - which is about when after-parties will just begin in Milano. After my quick one hour flight, it took about 2 hours to find my b&b but eventually, and with the help of a different b&b, found my place. It's wonderful! The house is on one of the hills in Napoli and the owner speaks wonderful English and showed me on a map the various places to go and how to get there. Molto buono. Also told me what pizza, coffee, and gelato he thought were best in Napoli.
the walkway to my b&b (at the end)
Pizza making is a very honored activity here (and what Naples is famous for). The owner of the b&b has been cooking pizza for a long time and just started offering courses in how to make them yourself. He did this because of his passion for this art. This is actually the main reason I booked this specific b&b - it offered a chance to learn how to cook pizza from a native napolian (?) and when given that chance, you just say "yes". An interesting note: he uses yeast that is about 150 or so years old that has been passed down from pizza maker to pizza maker. Love that. More on pizza making later when I take the course.

Once I got settled into my room, I went exploring, ate something that I thought was going to be a bread roll but turned out to be a fried macaroni ball (not complaining), and continued to wander through the narrows and crowded streets in the historic district. There were many churches, and even more street vendors. So many shops too! Visited a modern art museum - the Madre and saw some interested artwork.
Some skulls looking into mirrors..
After going back home to take a 3 hour nap to recover, I woke at 6pm and decided not to waste away in my room. So I ventured forth to the coast. I should have done that from the beginning. The open air and beautiful views were so relaxing. I walked around, had a snack, was unsuccessful in finding a suggested dinner spot but found a good alternative. I asked the waiter (very nice guy who spoke a little english) to recommend a pizza and he came out with what you might call.. a seafood pizza extravaganza. No doubt about it. And it was amazing.
Shells and all!
I walked along a pier, admired some large yachts, managed to avoid some couples making out, and had a chance to see the city from a different view. The stars were hidden due to city haze but the lights from the islands in the distance made up for it. Tomorrow I will do the coastal thing again most likely. I'll also try to make it to a few castles, possibly find a beach, and then take the pizza making course.

Mmm. I love standing somewhere looking at a sight and 'enjoying' it. It's a hill, with buildings and many lights scattered on the landscape. Nothing too grand to speak of. And then it hits you. You realize that you are halfway around the world from your real home. You are seeing a sight / standing in a location that most people will never have the chance to see / stand. I'm so blessed and honored. I could never have these great adventures of my life without emotional (and more) support from my amazing parents and family. I love them so much.


~Elizabeth


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